Sourcing Spotlight: Tuscarora Mills
America is composed of some of the greatest, most passionate, businesses and workers you will find anywhere in the world. A tremendous amount of skill, artistry, and dedication go into every material we use in the products we make. That is why, we here at Overtime Clothing, wanted to create a spotlight for the amazing people and businesses we work with that provide the high-quality materials we use in our products. While often these businesses are behind the scenes heroes, we want to make sure they get the recognition they rightfully deserve. While there may be some names you recognize and some you may have the pleasure of learning, Overtime Clothing is proud to post our bulletin - Sourcing Spotlight!
For this Sourcing Spotlight I had the pleasure to talk more with Heidi Custer and Dave Cook from Tuscarora Mills, one of the only companies left in the United States still producing iconic American fabrics such as selvedge denim. With a focus on sustainability and American production, Tuscarora Mills is a flagship in the textile industry.
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What is your name and can you tell us more about yourself and your business?
We are Heidi Custer and Dave Cook, founders of Tuscarora Mills, established in 2020. Our company designs and weaves natural fiber fabrics—hemp, flax, wool, and organic cotton—here in the United States. Our focus is on creating strong, beautiful, renewable, and biodegradable textiles for the American apparel, home goods, and industrial markets. We are committed to eliminating oil-based plastic fibers such as polyester and nylon, as well as non-circular extruded fibers like rayon and bamboo, from the fabrics we design and weave.
How did you get started in this industry?
Our work in textiles began in the late 1980s with fabric design, textile dyeing, apparel design, and apparel manufacturing. At that time, the American textile supply chain was vibrant and diverse, supporting designers and manufacturers across the country. Over the decades, as much of the industry offshored, we also began working off-shore in India. There, we gained a wealth of textile and garment knowledge and enjoyed collaborating with the hardworking teams there. In 2018, however, we realized we needed to be part of the solution to the environmental and social problems caused by globalized fashion and textiles. We moved our business back home and began to rediscover what was left of the supply chain. By 2019 we were planting hemp in our own fields, learning to process the fiber, and taking concrete steps toward building a more sustainable American natural fiber textile supply chain. This journey led us to found Tuscarora Mills.
How are you involved with the Overtime Clothing project?
For the Overtime Clothing project, Tuscarora Mills is supplying domestically woven natural fiber fabric. The denim that Overtime Clothing has chosen is woven on a vintage Draper shuttle loom (Cone Denim and Vintage Levi’s loom of choice) which makes dense, smooth, and durable selvedge denim fabric.
What drives you to do what you do?
We are driven by a deep belief that textiles should work with nature, not against her. Natural fibers—hemp, flax, wool, and organic cotton—are regenerative, biodegradable, and part of a healthier future for people and the planet. We are equally motivated by the need to reinvigorate America’s textile supply chain, support domestic jobs, and reduce dependence on oil-based global supply chains. Every fabric yard we weave is part of that commitment.
Where can our community find more information?
You can learn more about us and our work at:
Instagram: @tuscaroramillspa
Facebook: Tuscarora Mills PA
Is there anything else you would like to share with our community?
We’d like to thank you for supporting sustainable design and U.S.-based textile manufacturing. Every choice to use natural fibers and American-made fabrics contributes to healthier communities, stronger economies, and a better future for our children and the planet. Together, we can rebuild a textile industry that values nature, people, and craftsmanship.
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Heidi, Dave, and the entire Tuscarora Mills team have a passion for the textile industry that is truly unmatched. The dedication they have for sustainable, domestic textile manufacturing is a testament to the revival of the United States textile supply chain. They have leveraged American heritage craftsmanship and modern techniques to produce the highest quality products, without sacrificing our world to do it. It is a pleasure, and an honor, to feature USDA 100% organic cotton selvedge denim, custom made by Tuscarora Mills for Overtime Clothing, in our very first project.